新绿时节又逢君 - 2025年春 台南 京都 中山道 长野温泉 横滨 之旅 ...

ZJXZZN

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-3 14:05
不光是清水寺，高台寺好像就400？南禅寺600

但是奈良东大寺800，貌似奈良的门票物价比京都高

东大寺是国宝吧，最大木制建筑？

shine_on

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-13 16:50
哈哈哈，肯定是默默翻好，再抄好

那时候去吃的外国客人肯定还不多，现在应该是分庭抗礼了 ...

是啊，现在再遇到说中文的客人，大概也不会默认是台湾人了吧

joaquin

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-13 16:40
如果是机翻的话，是怎么出现frake这个词的

那谁知道，也许当年AI 技术不好。。。但是你看那个鸡蛋架饭是神马鬼。。。

joaquin

asurafairy11 发表于 2025-6-13 13:16
哈哈哈 我合理怀疑是美国客人要给小费 吵闹嗓门大和小费文化，美国游客两大毒瘤
好奇好奇，就喜欢 ...

Reddit 有个Sub叫做 r/ShitAmeriansSay。。。。
大家对米国人的吐槽，很搞笑的哈哈

微风细雨

asurafairy11 发表于 2025-6-13 13:16
哈哈哈 我合理怀疑是美国客人要给小费 吵闹嗓门大和小费文化，美国游客两大毒瘤
好奇好奇，就喜欢 ...

美国游客力气太大了 把拉面店里自动卖票机壁咚坏了 ：）印象深刻

剪刀石头布

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-13 10:12
我觉得他们改进了很多，按先来后到排就很文明，所以当晚最熟的客人其实是坐最边上的

还有我悄悄说一下， ...

这点特别认同！

很多年前一个人在京都吃板前割烹，好像叫千花（不确定），我不会日语，一个人闷头吃 用餐体验大打折扣

微风细雨

山玄茶 当初坛上看到 某人2刷
我们也去了 酒单上来没有价格 让我一惊 问了最贵价格是3千日元
放开喝酒 很是暇意的感觉 特别是樱花季 最后大将撒花的仪式 让队友和亲戚们开心呵 我保密没和他们说：）

violinlearner

剪刀石头布 发表于 2025-6-13 19:44
这点特别认同！

很多年前一个人在京都吃板前割烹，好像叫千花（不确定），我不会日语，一个人闷头吃:|| ...

这种情况你会不会宁愿一个人在个室里吃？

violinlearner

微风细雨 发表于 2025-6-13 19:51
山玄茶 当初坛上看到 某人2刷
我们也去了 酒单上来没有价格 让我一惊 问了最贵价格是3千日元
放开喝酒 很是 ...

日本客人告诉我，大将到现在每到樱花季节依然在撒花，我说我也被撒过，他撒花这个动作现在是不是很有名了？客人说是的是的，刷一下，特别潇洒，常吃的都知道

violinlearner

自从中场破冰之后，不光是我和周围的人破冰，而周围的人和周围的人也破冰了。比如我的左邻和右舍也聊起天来，这些日本人看看矜持，其实都想和其他人搭话的，要是我不作为，不知道他们还能端多久。左邻来自名古屋，右舍问你们娜娜酱还好吧。柜台那边那群男厨师都一头雾水，什么娜娜酱，我说是不是名铁百货店门口的那个巨大人偶，叫Nana,有常人两三个高。（不过现在一查，原来娜娜酱身高6.1米，都不止三个了）其实爱知县我所知不多，还好去年樱花季临走的时候在名古屋过了一下，看了名古屋城的满开樱花，所以也知道娜娜酱。

第一道甜点是よもぎあん，里面一抹是红豆馅。よもぎ艾草不愧是春天到初夏的当季植物，不仅在山玄茶，在其他地方也经常听到。这一道是应和当时所处的新绿季节。



第二道甜点，其中的橘子是肉挖掉后，再填入寒天做成的类似啫喱状的东西，冰镇过后非常爽口




右舍的熟客夫妇一直是太太聊天，先生默默听着，男人大概不好显得太八卦。不过到这个时候他也忍不住了，开始采访我。第一个问题是澳洲有没有四季。后来我还在不同的地方好几次被人问澳洲有没有四季，大概日本人对四季变化，应时应节这个概念非常看重。我告诉他们不仅澳洲有四季，而且墨尔本是一天里就能经历四季。要是日本也是这种一天四季的气候，他们那些季节限定该怎么办哟。

大将也开始采访我，问你为什么隔了九年才回访。这叫我怎么回答呢，于是我说这九年里在一生悬命学日语，好坐在板前跟您聊天啊。他又问你是怎么学日语的，也不好说得太细，于是我说是靠一生悬命花钱花时间来日本玩学的日语 （这话其实也不假，每次我到了日本之后，发现每一天的日语都比前一天进步，有环境就是容易提高啊）举座皆惊。

第三道甜点上来了，是新鲜做的水羊羹和打抹茶。





到了这里显然是结束了，但是厨师们还在忙碌，原来他们要把今晚的米饭捏成饭团子给客人们带回去。

饭团包成三角，有细心的客人发现拿到的包装纸不一样，大将说每个人都不一样哦，于是我借了左邻的饭团来拍照。



这才是我的那个，感谢款待，如此美味的一顿晚餐，如此欢乐的一个夜晚。



有人开始结账了，而右舍已经在预定下一次了。如果我愿意，又有机票的话 （虚拟语气），当时也可以预定。名古屋的客人说今天实在抱歉，没有东西给回礼，希望下次有缘在山玄茶见；京都滋贺夫妇说大将我们因为什么什么事把预定换到今天太开心了，在这里吃了这么多次，就属今天的客人有意思。我也是啊，谢谢你们陪我一起人来疯，让这顿开始有点沉闷的饭变成难忘的一餐。

大将把我送到门口，殷切关照，下次不要再隔九年再来。道别之际，他忽然朝我手里塞了一样东西，软绵绵的。我努力屏住，直到走出他的鞠躬范围才拿起来看，原来是那晚我用的山玄茶的餐巾。不知道他有没有把餐巾送给其他客人，还是对我的特别优待。反正九年前吃的两次都是没有餐巾的。



吃得很饱，心情很好，京都的夜晚似乎才开始，所以我就沿着鸭川，一路从四条走回七条。周六晚的河源町一带非常热闹，鸭川边的小径里有西人在弹着吉他，拉着double bass (!)　自娱自乐，而对岸灯火似乎又映照绵延历史中的鸭川和京都，古今对照 今夕何夕？



举杯邀明月 对影成三人。再美味的一餐饭也只是一餐饭而已，但是自己努力创造的回忆，付与文字，渐渐地就变成了那个如今的我的微小却不可或缺的一部分，也成为无情的时光里留下的为数不多的有情物。



就这样走入京都的夜色里。

violinlearner

祝大家周末愉快。

下次更新恐怕要周日晚上了

asurafairy11

啊真美好的一次用餐体验。我们当时也是给了茶巾的，可能是疫情之后的改进？
但你的那个山玄茶小手电肯定是独一份的

清墨水

好像是第一次读到楼主如此细致地描述一顿饭除了食物以外的场景，如同看了一出精彩的日剧

violinlearner

清墨水 发表于 2025-6-14 10:05
好像是第一次读到楼主如此细致地描述一顿饭除了食物以外的场景，如同看了一出精彩的日剧 ...

因为对食物我只会说好吃 不好吃 词汇贫乏

yeqingyezhunan

还能记录下这么多细节，估计楼主是边写边笑吧

ZJXZZN

楼主确实有才，图文并茂，娓娓道来，我都不知道自己旅行为啥不爱拍照。

清墨水

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-14 10:27
因为对食物我只会说好吃 不好吃 词汇贫乏

好吃不好吃对读者来说是最直观有效的描述，这五个字是食物种草成功与否的根本

maatthew

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-13 16:14
八寸之后是两贯寿司，一贯是金枪鱼赤身一贯是琵琶湖モロコ。赤身的或许鱼味较浓，配了一块浅浅腌渍过的新姜 ...

让人不禁想起世田谷。。。。

maatthew

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-13 23:38
自从中场破冰之后，不光是我和周围的人破冰，而周围的人和周围的人也破冰了。比如我的左邻和右舍也聊起天来 ...

这美好的经历和日后的回忆是对一生悬命学日语的馈赠

violinlearner

yeqingyezhunan 发表于 2025-6-14 10:59
还能记录下这么多细节，估计楼主是边写边笑吧

想起那天晚上就嘴角含笑

violinlearner

ZJXZZN 发表于 2025-6-14 11:09
楼主确实有才，图文并茂，娓娓道来，我都不知道自己旅行为啥不爱拍照。

每个人都不同的，按照自己喜欢的方式旅行就是最好的

violinlearner

maatthew 发表于 2025-6-14 11:18
这美好的经历和日后的回忆是对一生悬命学日语的馈赠

凭借语言，带来很多很多沟通的快乐，去到旅游的不同境地，我觉得学日语是我学音乐之后最好的人生决定

剪刀石头布

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-13 19:58
这种情况你会不会宁愿一个人在个室里吃？

那是我最后一次独自坐在板前用餐。

板前的魅力之一，正在于与主厨的交流互动，有时也能与其他食客聊上几句。后来再去板前，总是和朋友或家人一起，依然选择坐在板前的位置，而不是一个人待在个室里。

violinlearner

剪刀石头布 发表于 2025-6-14 13:56
那是我最后一次独自坐在板前用餐。

板前的魅力之一，正在于与主厨的交流互动，有时也能与其他食客聊上几 ...

确实，吃饭永远不是仅关于食物

微风细雨

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-14 12:33
每个人都不同的，按照自己喜欢的方式旅行就是最好的

有没有发觉日本做寿司的师傅都是看起来非常干净 皮肤雪白：）餐厅非常注重员工外表 不管年轻人还是年纪大的
一眼望去 好清爽的感觉

清墨水

微风细雨 发表于 2025-6-14 15:59
有没有发觉日本做寿司的师傅都是看起来非常干净 皮肤雪白：）餐厅非常注重员工外表 不管年轻人还是年纪大 ...

毕竟是字面意义上的手拿把掐做食物，手既是工具也是出品，仪表邋里邋遢的谁敢吃

DFH7703

violinlearner 发表于 2025-6-14 12:36
凭借语言，带来很多很多沟通的快乐，去到旅游的不同境地，我觉得学日语是我学音乐之后最好的人生决定 ...

也想学 但觉得好难

violinlearner

DFH7703 发表于 2025-6-15 12:00
也想学 但觉得好难

人生太短太无常了，不要浪费时间在犹豫里

violinlearner

今天的心情是想写点英语，于是就写了. 配图以后在游记里写到再上。

这就当是今天的更新吧。

When I called Yamata Ryokan in Otari Village of Nagano Prefecture from Australia, the lady who answered the call sounded noticeably nervous.

Are you sure? We are located in a small village faraway from Tokyo.

I know, I answered, this is what I am after.

That was not enough to reassure her: We don’t have anyone who can speak English and everything is in Japanese.

Don’t worry, as you can tell, I do understand and speak in Japanese as I am speaking right now.

It is not convenient to come by public transport.

I know, I will rent a car from Nagano and drive from there.

But she was still hesitant. You know how to drive here? We are faraway and there is nothing in our hotel that a foreign tourist may find appealing . Only hot spa bath from long long ago…

Perfect, that would be my dream destination.

This conversation might sound unwelcoming at first but it turned out that the hostess (女将さん）is very nice and the only reason she was worried was that the vast majority of her guests are locals and she was a bit uncertain as to how to manage my expectations.

And what an incredible ryokan she and her husband have been operating . There are four buildings, three of which are listed as national heritage. Her husband’s family has been operating the ryokan for 600 years (the same lineage) . Although the buildings were destroyed and lost in history over and over again, the three oldest buildings still standing today date back to 150+years, 110+ years and 100 years respectively.

There are no other ryokans or hotels or really anything else around , only the ryokan and its onsen (natural spa) surrounded by mountains.  On the day of my stay, there were only six groups of guests including myself, probably because there are only limited workers who can cater for limited number of guests. All the other guests are Japanese.

We were all arranged to stay at the newest building (about 36 years old) , the only building that is not listed as national heritage, presumably for modern facilities that the historic buildings lack. At dusk, when walking from the front desk to my room, I had to pass through the three historic buildings one by one. It literally felt like walking into history.

When the corridors and the rooms were lit up from within, the view from outside was surreal. In this middle of nowhere, I was lost in thoughts. It is fundamentally different from the ultimately famous and classic city Kyoto which I visited before turning to Nagano and it is basically a different world from the city I call home in the southern hemisphere. When I am typing this from a small  study in my house in suburban Melbourne at a cold winter night, the memories of Yamata Ryokan seem distant, almost  light years away. It is for this extreme contrast to our boring daily life that we travelers pack our bags and board onto one plane after another .

Oh , and the onsen(natural spa). The indoor motoyu( 元湯）meaning the original onsen is the same as it was about 120 years ago. Though some may find it old, even a bit scary,  it fascinated me. The efforts it takes to keep as it is for 120 years is beyond my imagination. The hard work day after day, the dedication, the sacrifices… all by the same family generation after generation .And the opportunity to see something from 120 years ago still operating, well and alive… When I soaked myself into it and looked up to observe the onsen configuration, I felt both serene and excited, like going back to a home that I hadn’t been for ages.

It was raining hard the next morning. As a tourist with limited time for traveling, I can't say I like rain a lot. However the rain made Otari village and the surrounding mountains even quieter and calmer, as if all the worries in life were trivial and all the meanings we pursue were paled to almost non existent. The outdoor onsen (露天風呂）faces the mountain, whose roof and  structure came from an old and abandoned temple (薬師堂）I have seen quite a few fancier onsen but nothing compares with the outdoor onsen of Yamata in terms of its originality and serenity in a raining morning of May.

When I loaded my rental car and was ready to go, the hostess rushed to my window in rain to give me a present, which is a piece of cloth used to pack anything you like (風呂敷）. She pointed to herself, indicating the pattern of the cloth is the same as the kimono she was wearing . How lovely and thoughtful. I expressed my gratitude. But then in heavy rain she gestured for me to wait again. She rushed away and came back with two packs of Japanese snacks in her hand. You can’t go without taking some kawaii Japanese stuff, she said. Rain was dripping from her hair and her smile bright and sincere.

Sayonara, Yamata ryokan. I may or may not come back, but I will not forget the beautiful buildings, the original onsen, the wonderful mountain view in spring rain,  the surreal atmosphere of walking back into history in a quiet mountain village far far away from Tokyo and Kyoto, but most importantly I will not forget your authentic Japanese hospitality - in this world ruled by AI,  influencers and algorithm, I value the sincerity from bottom of my heart.

shine_on

我看秘汤协会网站是有各种plan的，可以选住哪栋，也有一人plan
你当时必须要打电话的原因是什么，太晚订吗？