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The TV show Glutton for Punishment from the Food Network had an episode in 2007 where the show host Bob Blumer had to master the art of making hand-pulled noodles in one week. One of the challenges that he had to overcome was that nobody would give him a recipe for the dough. After a lot of sleuthing, he saw a noodle chef preparing the dough and came up with a recipe consisting of pastry flour, all-purpose flour, baking soda and water. Pastry flour has 10-11.5% protein whereas all-purpose flour has 11-13% protein. A mixture of these two flours is lower in protein (gluten) than all-purpose flour and will make a dough that is easier to stretch. In addition, the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate, NaHCO3) increases the alkalinity of the dough. The alkalinity weakens the flour proteins, improves moisture retention by hydrating the starches, and produces a more pliable dough that facilitates pulling the noodles.
Traditional Chinese noodle recipes used "Kansui" or alkaline water from wells in the preparation of the dough. Modern formulations use kansui powder, containing sodium and potassium carbonates, dissolved in water. A published commercial recipe for Chinese noodles describes dough made from hard wheat flour with 45% added water and 1% kansui powder consisting of 55% sodium carbonate (Na2CO3), 35% potassium carbonate (K2CO3), and 10% sodium biphosphate dodecahydrate (NaHPO3.12H2O).[1] Japanese ramen noodles are a variation of Chinese-style noodles made with kansui.
The following recipe was documented to work well for pulled noodles.[2] Measure the ingredients carefully using a digital scale. Mix the dry ingredients, and stir in the water and the vegetable oil. Once the dough has formed, put the dough on a flat table and knead it with your hands. The dough has to be kneaded and stretched until the gluten structure breaks down and no lumps are visible when the dough is stretched. This requires about 20 minutes. A stand mixer set at medium speed can do the job in about 15 minutes. The amount of flour and water may need to be adjusted to get the proper consistency. The dough is ready for pulling when it feels like clay, and it does not tear when you try to stretch it. Pulling noodles is definitely an art that requires lots of practice!
Luke Rymarz's Recipe for Hand-Pulled Noodles
156 grams cake flour
25 grams all purpose flour
110 grams warm water
2 grams salt
1 gram baking soda
6 grams vegetable oil |
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