【大J文摘】我的最爱——印花裤子

ying74

大J闲来无事，搜到此文，虽是旧文一篇，也未尝不可。给所有Gorman控，译得差强人意之处，还请一笑而过！

INTERVIEW---LISA GORMAN
访谈录（节选）——莉莎•戈曼

P.S.
In 1999, lisa gorman launched her eponymous label at fledgling boutique fat52 in fitzroy, melbourne, with a collection titled 'less than 12 degrees'. the instant success of that first offering was the beginning of something special, and in the years that have followed the gorman label has become an iconic part of the australian fashion landscape.
1999年，莉莎在墨村FITZROY的FAT52（一家小规模的精品店）开始她的同名品牌，她带来了她的‘少于12度’系列。小试牛刀，一发不可收，随着时间流逝，戈曼品牌已经成为澳洲时尚界的偶像之一。


How is the business structured? –  how many people work with you and do you still play a very hands-on role in the day-to-day running of the business?
生意构建：你有多少员工？在日常经营中，你仍然事必躬亲吗？


I have a staff of around 140 people, mostly being our prized and precious retail staff out in the stores.  I have a small product design team of 3, including myself, a graphics and IT/online team of around 3 and a management / admin team of around 8 people. I’m very hands on, basically directing all creative elements of the business from store fit-outs to product design to branding to promo’s. I spend most of my time directly on clothing and accessory product design which I believe is the backbone of the brand. If the product isn’t spot on then the rest of it is a waste of time. I have excellent support within the business in managing the day to day runnings of the retail side of the business, which is super important when my skills lay naturally with the creative side.
我有将近140名员工，大部分作为我们重要的零售系统员工派往各个店铺。我有一个包括我自己在内的3人产品设计小团队，一个大概3人的图像和IT网络团队，还有一个大概8人的行政管理团队。当然，我事必躬亲，基本上直接指导所有的创意元素，从店铺准备到产品设计再到品牌推广。我花了几乎我所有的时间在服装和配件产品的设计上，这些我相信是一个品牌的支柱。如果产品定位不准确，那么其余的都是浪费时间。我有强有力的来自零售方的支持，管理每日的商业运作，这一点非常重要，使我在创意这一方游刃有余。


What were your initial goals for Gorman when you first started?
个人初衷: 你最初对自己品牌的目标是什么？


I had no expectations to be honest. My initial goal was to do the 10 peice exhibition-style collection for Fat, of which there were  25 pieces of each style all made from almost the same roll of fabric. I didn’t want a fashion business. I couldn’t think of anything worse than comitting to rent, staff, overheads, calculators, margins. Scary.
老实说，我没有什么期望。我最初的目标是能做10件款式一季给FAT(一家小规模的精品店)，再用同一批料子每个款式做大概25件。我并不热衷于时尚业。很难想象有什么会比满脑子租金，员工，日常经费，计算器，利润更糟糕的了。害怕！

How would you describe your own sense of style?  Are you more comfortable in jeans and Converse, or do you always wear pretty things and cute shoes!?
个人品味：你怎么形容你个人的穿衣风格？你认为牛仔和CONVERSE鞋更舒适吗？还是你总穿着漂亮的衣服和可爱的鞋子？


Always more comfy in jeans and conny’s, but in fear of that getting boring I mix it around with lady-shoes, shirts and my favourite… the printed pant.
牛仔和帆布鞋总是让人很舒服，但是有时不免单调。我喜欢把它们和淑女鞋，裙子，还有我的最爱——印花裤子混搭在一起穿。


详见http://thedesignfiles.net/2011/11/interview-lisa-gorman-giveaway/

澳洲行

mark

douxuejin

hellou

monchichi0115

nikki66yoyo

VVV小熙VVV

知识贴啊，感谢楼主

azz1212

liul213

正能量呀

hellenhaixia

jameshuo

超喜欢她的

Bailey

没想到团队如此小，可想而知挺忙碌的。

ying74

Bailey 发表于 2014-5-25 20:46
没想到团队如此小，可想而知挺忙碌的。

能撑下来，不容易，多少独立设计师关门大吉啊

ying74

大J对此主题甚感兴趣，就多聊两句，想到南美的玉米地，不禁想食玉米饼，哈哈！



INTERVIEW: LISA GORMAN ON GORMAN AW14
访谈录（节选）：关于品牌戈曼 2014秋冬款
详见：http://www.pagesdigital.com/inte ... 4/gorman_aw14-9.jpg

This season, designer Lisa Gorman is after a little bit of paganism in her life, which translates to prints lifted from nature: beyond the vegetable print, there’s a veritable garden of flora-inspired patterns from a big, bold, ’70s-inspired take to a soft white-on-white devore, rendered in a (white) witchy maxi-dress.
这一季，设计师莉莎仍然追随着她生活中的点滴叛逆，从自然界提炼出的印花图案足以诠释这一切。除了蔬菜印花图案，还有一组名符其实的植物赋予灵感的图案样式，脱胎于有着大片单一印花的70年代白色柔软女巫长裙。

Elsewhere, there’s a folk-influence making its presence felt in quilted jackets and embroidered smock dresses, while fringed leather pieces ensure that it doesn’t come off as twee.
其他地方，如绗缝棉袄和刺绣布裙，再到皮质流苏装饰，皆充满民俗特色。


What prompted the “winter harvest” theme to this collection?
是什么唤起这一季的主题“冬宴”？

It started with the winter harvest vegetable print, but in the context of a southern American, clear winter days and frosty nights in the cornfield sort of thing. There is something quite pagan-like about the collection, I like the slowness of the process of growing and harvesting and the reliance on the elements.
这季以蔬菜印花开始，其实是以南美为背景，想像冬日的玉米地，丽日霜夜这一类事情。是有一些像是叛逆的东西存在，我喜欢物质依赖于原生态生长和丰收的慢节拍。

ying74

What was on your moodboard for this season’s range?
这一季你的素材板上有什么？

Gold things, fringing, rusty tools and industrial furniture, some French colonial bits and pieces, our pet chickens Silky and Bok Choy, French vintage embroidery and lace, old denim, and a cornfield scene.
金色物件，流苏穗饰，生锈旧农具，工业风家具，法式殖民气质的小零碎，我们的宠物鸡，法式复古味道的刺绣花边，古旧丹宁和玉米地风光。

工业风家具：

ying74

Gorman 开始进军家居市场，看来是要全线出击啊！此女子野心不小，不可小觑！Hometime W14 ，延续她的服装品味。