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发表于 2022-2-5 11:55
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No one really knows since the oil and car industry are so opaque.
We have our suspicions, though, that the lighter weight oils are more about fuel economy than slipping into really tight spaces in new cars.
We get really cynical when cars sold here call for only 0W-20 but owners manuals in foreign countries for the same vehicle recommend 5W-30 (yes, the same motor despite smaller displacement engines often replacing, over there, the larger engines sent here).
There are a lot of politics over ICE (internal combustion engines).
Sometimes consumers want cheaper oil, and you can buy a cheap version of 5W-20 in conventional formulation, while 0W-20 is only made in full synthetic and hence is priced higher. Unfortunately 5W-20 in a conventional or semi-synthetic blend breaks down too quickly and you are at risk unless you follow the shorter “Severe” service oil change schedule. Also you may have more ring deposits even with a shorter service interval.
Even in America the API (American Petroleum Institute representing refineries) and ILSAC (International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee, formed in 1992 by AAMA (American Automobile Manufacturers Association) are constantly fighting about how “cheap” vs. how “good” oil should be. You can guess that API wants to sell lots and lots of oil which means cheaper, and ILSAC wants the engines to last longer and the drain intervals to be longer (conflicting goals at times) due to pressure from the EPA and Congress and environmentalists.
I think with a car still under factory warranty, your best bet is to use exactly the oil specified on the oil cap. If the viscosity spec is one such that its made in cheap conventional or semi-synthetic blend, nevertheless use full synthetic and don’t go beyond 5,000 miles even if 7,500 or even 10,000 miles are permitted by the manual. Or, alternately, follow the severe service schedule.
Checking oil level every other fill-up is a good idea (I never see anyone at the gas station do this any more, though) since oil can burn off, and smelling the oil on the dipstick for gasoline contamination is also a good idea (sometimes the oil burning off is replaced by gasoline contamination and your dipstick level is fine but your oil is anything but).
In short, your warranty is probably more at risk than your engine, but your engine WILL be at risk if it either deliberately specifies a full synthetic, or specs an oil that for all practical purposes is only made as a full synthetic (which is exactly what your 0W-20 factory recommended oil is). So if you take your chances on a thicker viscosity (Cannonball Run, anyone?), at least make sure it’s full synthetic.
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