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from Sydney morning Herald: what do you think
Sydney's top 10 yum cha restaurants
Terry Durack
August 26, 2010
Comments 16
the (sydney) magazine
A guide to common yum cha dishes. Click for more photos
Guide to Yum Cha Dishes
A guide to common yum cha dishes.
* A guide to common yum cha dishes.
* Pork and prawn dumplings - siu mai
* Barbecued pork - char siew.
* Chickens' feet - fung jiao.
* Whitebait fritter - bak fan yu
* Prawn steam noodles - ha cheung fun
* Steamed Chinese broccoli - gai lan
* Pork buns - cha siu bao
* Vegatarian spring rolls - chun guen
* Lotus leaf rice - lo mai gai.
* Spinach dumplings - bo choi gao
* Steamed dumplings - gao gee
* Dumpling - shao long bao
* Deep fried yam with minced pork - wu kok
* Prawn dumpling - ha gao.
* Custard tart - dan taat
* Custard buns - dan wong tsan bao
* Doughy bread balls filled with red bean paste - lo mai chee
Let's be honest: yum cha can be a hit-or-miss affair in Sydney. So where to get the best dumplings and custard tarts? Terry Durack rolls out his top 10.
We are now programmed to require regular infusions of the billowing steam, bossy trolley dollies, stacked bamboo steamers and constant clamour that make up a traditional Cantonese yum cha. It's not as easy to find a great Sydney yum cha as it used to be - the dumplings have grown too big and too sweet, the quality of key ingredients such as prawns has suffered - yet it still remains one of the most delicious ways to get together over good food with friends and family.
Here are 10 of our best yum chas, judged on quality, variety, technique and the joy of the dining experience. We've stretched the traditional brief to include vegetarian and Taiwanese, as well as a modern variant that comes with cocktails and music - not very Cantonese, perhaps, but very Sydney ...
1. Sunny Harbour Seafood Restaurant
This vast, chaotic daily bunfight of a restaurant must be Sydney's busiest yum cha. Even on Mondays, you'll have to take a raffle ticket and wait for a table on one of the two upstairs floors. It's worth it, though, as the high turnover means that everything is fresh and brightly flavoured, from stir-fried egg noodles to golden fried calamari, sweetly tender pork ribs, king-size chicken feet and silky cheung faan rice-noodle rolls.
Best bet: Fun gwor dumplings of pork, shrimp and coriander.
Address: 9-11 Crofts Avenue, Hurstville. Phone: 9585 1633.
2. Golden Unicorn
What a jolly, happy place this is - all a-hustle-bustle with hungry families queuing up the stairs, hailing trolleys and peering enviously at the choices on the table next to them. The har cheung faan (fresh rice-noodle roll with prawn) is moreish, while the fried wu gok is ravishingly good, with a fright-wig of crispness around a soft, rich, creamy taro filling. Lots of innovation, too - look out for the cute ma lai goh cupcakes.
Best bet: The flawless rice congee, studded with preserved egg and soft, shreddy pork.
Address: Level 2, 193 Maroubra Road, Maroubra. Phone: 9344 9278.
3. East Ocean
The trolleys recently disappeared from this long-time Chinatown favourite but the picture menu and order-card system have an upside, in that what you order is freshly steamed and generally comes hot. Neat little bite-sized siu mai dumplings make a refreshing change from the flabby, overblown king-size versions more often found on Dixon Street. The legions of waiters are run off their feet but the kitchen keeps up both quality and variety, the dumplings not overly sweet and with none of that nasty ammonia or iodine taint in the prawns that spoils many a har gau and prawn rice roll. For a delicious finish, try the sweet beancurd in almond syrup.
Best bet: Har gau - delicate, bite-sized, clean-tasting steamed prawn dumplings.
Address: 421-429 Sussex Street, Haymarket. Phone: 9212 4198.
4. Palace
This smart-looking Cantonese devotes itself to yum cha by day, stealing the business from its Chinatown colleagues' more lacklustre offerings with a lively line-up of trolleys tended by motherly female staff. Endless variety and some rarely seen dishes (sticky-rice spring rolls, for instance) make for a fun experience, rounded out by caringly assembled gai laan with soy and oyster sauce, delicate dau miu gau (pea-sprout dumplings) and tender braised tripe. The dessert trolley of jellies and fruit puddings would make a kids' birthday party look dull.
Best bet: The dazzling scallop siu mai (steamed pork and prawn dumplings), crowned with sparkling roe.
Address: Level 1, Shop 38, Piccadilly Tower, 133-145 Castlereagh Street, city. Phone: 9283 6288.
5. Manly Phoenix
This Manly outpost of the highly regarded Phoenix Group (which reopens Sky Phoenix in the Westfield Sydney redevelopment in November) comes with a slick fit-out that's chopstick chic. And as well as wave after wave of dim sum trolleys, you also get wave after wave of waves, via up-close harbour views. On weekends, the usual pandemonium breaks out as warring tables vie for new arrivals of golden ham sui gok (deep-fried football-shaped pork dumplings), fluffy char sieu bau (steamed pork buns) and steamy pork and prawn siu mai. Midweek might be more civilised and sedate but it's never going to be as much fun as the weekend bunfight.
Best bet: The flaky, lard-rich, custard-filled daan tarts.
Address: Shop 22-23, Manly Wharf, East Esplanade, Manly. Phone: 9977 2988.
6. Marigold
The steam seemed to go out of this one-time Chinatown yum cha pacesetter but the recent relocation of staff from its just-closed sister restaurant, Regal, has put a bit of life back into the old girl. Staff are more eager to peddle their wares and the dumplings are well made, although often a little flabby from over-steaming. Braised dishes are popular and the stuffed eggplant, gelatinous fung jao (chicken feet) and lotus-leaf-wrapped sticky rice (nor mai gai) all hit the spot. Beware the lifts - they have minds of their own.
Best bet: Fresh, puffy char sieu bau (steamed bun) filled with caramelised, un-dyed roast pork.
Address: Levels 4/5, 683-689 George Street, city. Phone: 9281 3388.
7. Din Tai Fung
While not at all a Cantonese yum cha restaurant, this wildly popular Taiwanese-based global noodle chain has enough dim sum on its regular menu to make it a great alternative. Spend the time waiting for your table watching the gloved and masked chefs at work, like surgeons in an operating theatre, then hit the wasp-waisted prawn and pork siu mai; light, steamy barbecue pork buns; spicy pork and prawn wontons; and steamed, sweet red-bean buns. This is no leisurely, all-day exercise, however - you're in and you're out again.
Best bet: The pinch-topped, purse-like xiao long bao (Shanghainese pork dumplings), miraculously containing a spoonful of piping-hot soup, served with ginger vinegar.
Address: Level 1, World Square Shopping Centre, 644 George Street, city. Phone: 9264 6010.
8. Great Century
The run-down carpet and worn red chairs may not be promising but when the Beijing duck trolley comes trundling, greed wins over aesthetics every time. An affordable suburban option (next to a free car park), Great Century does decent snow-pea dumplings, pork siu mai, lotus leaf sticky rice and cold beer - but it's the carved-to-order duck in mandarin pancakes ($5.50 per portion) that really puts the yum into the cha.
Best bet: Wu gok (fried taro dumpling).
Address: 23 Greenfield Parade, Bankstown. Phone: 9796 3366.
9. Bodhi Restaurant and Bar
Bodhi serves up Sydney's only vegetarian yum cha, seven days a week. Not just vegetarian but Buddhist vegan, which means, among other things, no onions, no chives and no garlic. Adding to the charm is its appropriately tranquil setting in Cook and Phillip Park, with a lovely alfresco terrace tucked away under giant Moreton Bay fig trees. While some of the dishes (barbecue gluten buns, potato croquettes, satay tofu, adzuki bean buns) taste a little ersatz, you can understand why vegetarian yum cha lovers are grateful this place exists.
Best bet: The spring gau vegetarian dumplings, filled with baby corn, peas, carrot and tofu.
Address: Lower mezzanine, Cook and Phillip Park, 2 College Street, city. Phone: 9360 2523.
10. LL Wine & Dine
It's a sign of the times we can take yum cha in a Kings Cross back alley with cocktails, coffee and cool music. Brothers Matthew, Chris and Tim Barge run a laid-back, post-hangover list of home-cooked favourites, from pai gwat (steamed pork ribs) to fat little siu long bau (Shanghainese soup dumplings) and steamed gai laan with oyster mushroom sauce. Team them with a jug of Big Trouble in Little China (42Below Vodka, fresh coriander, vanilla and pineapple juice). Sundays only.
Best bet: Prawn and pork wontons with chilli oil and Chinese black vinegar, topped with shredded egg and pickled mustard greens.
Address: 42 Llankelly Place, Potts Point. Phone: 9356 8393. |
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发表于 2010-8-27 01:12
