|
|
此文章由 yoyyo2000 原创或转贴，不代表本站立场和观点，版权归 oursteps.com.au 和作者 yoyyo2000 所有！转贴必须注明作者、出处和本声明，并保持内容完整
第七片。。。
04/05/2011 Wednesday, Namche Bazaar (3440 m) .
Last night after dinner, both Anna and I felt quiet tired. We went to bed just after 8pm. I think Anna felt a lot worse and lost her appetite.
I had two boiled eggs for breakfast this morning. It was a struggle because my stomach was still feeling a bit upset.
After breakfast, we had a steep climb up the side of the valley. We could see the snow capped thamserku in the close distance. Then we climbed up steadily up the hill along the valley. The valley was green and lush with lots of rhodedendron of all sorts of colours along the way. The higher we climbed, less flowers and tall trees there were as well. There were significant more small tough dark green shrubs along the way. A few yaks were glazing on the grass.
Ram pointed out the little lodge on the top of the hill which looked out if reach, and said we were going to have lunch there. The lodge was in Mong. The walk from Namche bazaar to Mong was around 4 hours.
The "good " news was that Phortse (3810m) where we were going to stay that night was on the other side of the valley at the same altitude, which meant we had to climb all the way down after lunch, cross the river, and then climb all the way up again.
Some sections of the path were right on the cliff. I thought we were pretty lucky that no yaks were coming down in those sections of the path.
We saw some wild mountain goats and very rare musk deer on the cliff face which made you wonder why they got there and how on earth they were going to get down?!
When we arrived in Mong, I was half dead. We had a long lunch break at a Sherpa restaurant. There was a three year old Sherpa boy in there as well. His name was Pemba Sherpa. He was super cute and can speak a little English. He was playing with Chrissy & Dawn, and then were free-loading some momos off them. After lunch we went down the side of the valley. We crossed the Dudh Koshi Nadi river over a flimsy wooden bridge. The river had thus clean turquoise colour and there were lots of big white rocks on the river bank. When the water crushed over the rocks, it had this beautiful white milky colour, hence it's name, milky river.
There were a lot of Trekkers on the trail. Everyone was very friendly and greeting each other namaste.
I really struggled going back up the hill again and I was trying to play the "om mani peme hum "song in my head to keep me going. When i arrived in Phortse (3810m), I crashed and burned for 2-3 hours and had nightmares about trekking. I told people I was traumatized by trekking at that point. Dawn told me when i said that my face was green and my lips were purple.
I woke up in cold sweat when Ram knocked on the door to tell us to go to dining room. The heater was on, he said. The heater used yak dung, but you can't smell any shit literally. It was nice and warm. We played some cards. I had stirfry cabbage and rice for dinner. I was really craving for some fresh fruit and vegetables. Cabbage couldn't survive in such harsh environment, thus it's a luxury. I think I might get scurvy after twi weeks. I should have brought some vitamin c tablets or something.
In Phortse, we stayed in Thamserku View Lodge. The owner Kama Rita Sherpa has summited everest 5 times. And he won second in everest marathon in 2007 ( 4:32:51). Unfortunately he was on an Everest expedition, so we didn't see him. His wife was cooking for us.
Phortse is a very small town with 100-200 population. Most people working in the farms and lodges were women. Apparently most men were involved in trekking and expeditions.
Tomorrow we are walking to dingboche (4410m). It will be a longer walk, but not as steep.
Thus is probably the hardest thing I have done so far, both physically and mentally. To ensure survival, I have been snacking on snicker bars and trail bars which are probably that good for my teeth.
05/05/2011 Thursday Dingboche (4400m)
Last night i had a pretty good sleep, I woke up in a bit of sweat and could breathe ok. I had muesli and hot milk for breakfast.
It was a vert tough day today. We gained lots in altitude (590m). The trail was rough and literally on the face of the cliff. The surface of the road was getting rockier. You could really feel the change in oxygen level and altitude as the surrounding area started to look more like a death zone. There were no more big tress with flowers. There were little thrubs, more wild Himalayan mountain goats, impeyan peasants ( national bird). Male peasants were very pretty with 9 different colours in their feathers. I saw more musk deers which were very rare. We didn't see any yeti though.
When we arrived in dingboche, I was knackered (spent). We were staying at peak 38 view lodge. I had a nap for 1-2 hours. At dinner time, I had plain rice with fried vegetables. I saw some Chinese spam ( luncheon meat ) in the lodge. I had those as a treat when I was traveling with my mother on long distance train when I was really little. at that time, processed can food just started in china and was really fancy. I was always very excited about train rides because all the processed food I could get.
I asked Pemba how much the spam was. He said 600 rupees!! Cost more thank two litters of everest beer in thamel! I really craved for some meat, so I said how about You halve it. I would have half tonight and half tomorrow night. It was good, but not as good as I remembered. I also noticed it was manufactured in 2007 and was going to expire in 5months, score!!. It must have been very popular. Tonight I am going to sleep really well. Tomorrow night we are sleeping in the same town. Tomorrow is going to be another acclimatization day which meant vigorous walking up to higher ground and back.
In the peak 38 lodge, we could see island peak ( Ijma Tse ) and peak 38.
06/05/2011. Friday. Narajun Hill
Woke up with a splitting headache today. I could feel my front lobe was pulsating. And my scalp felt really warm and puffy. My heart rate was going over 100 rpm. I was unable to speak, I had to sit in bed for 5-10 minutes before I could get out of bed. I tried to force down muesli and hot milk, but ended up vomiting everything a minute later. After that, I had to force down a few spoons of muesli to make sure I have the energy for the climb today.
There was a retired yak hanging around the lodge. It was very cute, always liked some company.
Today is another acclimatization day. We were hiking up narajun hill and tried to reach the peak. I was exhausted, I think I made 2/3 way through ( maybe around 4600-4700 m). We saw a different angle of Ama Dublam and peak 38. It was pretty amazing to see yourself standing at a height that even helicopters find it hard to reach.
The view was stunning, but I was too sick to appreciate. I took a couple of photos and then headed down. I had lunch with leftover luncheon meat. I crashed and burned on the couch in the dining room for 3-4 hours. When I woke up, I was feeling slight Better and started reading "into thin air" again. And it brought me to tears thinking what kind of dedication those climbers had or hardship they had to go through to conquer those mountains. All I am doing is walking to the base camp and I feel like death. Not too far to go now. Just a few more days.
07/05/2011. Saturday. Lobuche (4910 m) alpine inn
Last night, Dawn gave me some high altitude pills and advised me to take every 12 hours. I was very very grateful. It was so dumb that I was so underprepared.
I had a reasonable sleep. I woke up a few times feeling cold. In the morning I woke up in sweat. I had a slight headache, no tightness in the chest. My fingers and toes were tingling as a side effects of the medication. Today's trek felt relatively "easier" compare to yesterday. Team mates said I had got a bit more colour on my face as well.
We had a steep climb in the valley. The trail was really rocky with very minimal vegetation. we walked passed a memorial for past dead Trekkers and mountaineers. One of them was Scott Fischer. The other famous one was Babu Chiricahua Sherpa. He summited everest 11 times. Two Summits in a week, he spent 21 hours on summit without oxygen. Apparently he died taking photos for other people while walking back too far(??? Need to confirm).
We headed to Thokla (4620 m) for a break. Then we walked uphill among all the big rocks and we made our way to lobuche (4910m).
I was feeling generally Better but still very exhausted. After lunch ( garlic soup with Tibetan bread), We did a vert steep 30 minutes climb to see the Khumbu glacier. It was freezing. After we came back, I had a 3-4 hour nap. Tomorrow is another big day! Everest base camp!!!
08/05/2011 Sunday gorak shep, 5140m. Snowland highest inn.
Ram's quote,
"look, this is the Everest, ing crazy mountain. Lots of people fief there"
"those porters are carrying human waste down from the base camp. 150 rupees per kilo".
Today was the toughest day I ever bad. We got up at 5 am, couldn't really complain. We had breakfast at 5 30 am, and left lobuche (4910 m) at 6 am. It was foggy and freezing. Everything had been covered by a thin layer of frost including a few wandering yaks. Then it started snowing. I didn't not think I have been this cold in my life. I had a layer of thermal, and a layer of fleece. i also had a bandana scarf to cover my mouth and face which I had to constantly take off to breathe. A beanie which covered my head and ears. The skin around my nose was constant sore from the constant blowing. My nose had been blocked for days, which was a good thing because I couldn't smell myself.
The walk to gorak shep was uneventful. Nothing looked alive except a few people/yaks that passed us.
when we arrived, we had a 9 am early lunch. Then we headed off to the base camp. We were walking on the edge of the Khumbu glacier, many times on the landslides. There were lots of ups and downs.
The trail was mainly consists of rocks and dust. Small rocks tend to be vert slippery, had to be very careful. Big rocks can be worse, because you don't want to step on a loose piece of rock or get your foot stuck in there.
We were literally ( for real, not figuratively speaking) walking on the top of the glacier. During monsoon season, the glacier will become very unstable and cracks constantly, as a result, no trekkers or climbers will go there during that time. The glacier was partly covered by dry landslide ( which we walked on) and partly exposed. The exposed part was turquoise like from some fairytale.
The wind blew off it was very chilling. Some patches we walked on had gravels mixed with ice and water.it was slightly worrying. It took good three hours to get there. Distance wise, it was not very far, but the altitude, up & down hills and road conditions made it feel like a million miles when we got there (5364 m). We saw around 100 tents pinched over the glacier. We stood around for 20-30 minutes, and took some photos. Gary and Eric the father and son combo from wyoming are the fittest in the group. They even walked to one of the tents and visited their friends from back home. This couple are planning to summit the everest in the middle of may. You should have seen the Khumbu icefall they have to cross numerous times to get to camp 1.
I think the craziest thing I would do is just to get to the camp. I can't imagine base camp is actually the starting point for them. They must be crazy.
I was not sure what I was thinking when I sighed up 2-3 months ago. I must had been a blind hopeless romantic who didn't know what she got herself into. And I still can't believe Anna agreed to come along.
This is probably one of the most physically and mentally challenging thing I have done in my life. I think my next holiday will be an easier one. Thailand would be a good start.
Lobuche and gorak shep were completed set up for Trekkers and mountaineers. There were no local people other than people working in the lodges. The only green plants were the fake ones on the window seal. There is no potato or barley growing here. It's a complete dead zone with sand, rocks and ice.
We had really good luck today with weather, the sky was clear. We saw Ama dublam, pumo ri (7165m), nuptse 7864m, lobuche west 6135, lobuche east 6090, lhotse 8516 m, shar tse (peak 38) 7591m, cholatse 6335 m. We even saw saw four climbers near the summit of lobuche west.
Keep in touch
Love, wei |
评分
-
查看全部评分
|
完了，低级趣味了 - 关于儿童阅读 (2009-3-31) 缓缓 
楼主:yoyyo2000
发表于 2011-7-2 09:02
